Photo by environmental lawyer and photographer, Gail Karlsson
The smell of bay rum reminds many people of their fathers and grandfathers, as it was a popular men’s fragrance in the early 1900s. But for us on St. John, it reminds us of home. It reminds us of Cinnamon Bay, Reef Bay, and Bordeaux, where the smell of the spicy leaves mix with the fragrance of the earth. You may not see the tree itself, but the scent is carried on the wind, especially after it’s rained. Bay leaf is mainly associated with St. John because our mountainous terrain, where moisture retention is sufficient, gives the bay tree the optimal growing conditions. Aside from the scent, the tree is recognizable by its bark, which peels off like cinnamon sticks. The similarity to cinnamon bark is the reason why Europeans referred to the bay leaf trees as Cinnamon and ended up naming two beaches after it: Cinnamon Bay and Caneel Bay (Caneel being the Danish translation of cinnamon). Bay leaves are dark green and shiny. They are also quite sturdy. Traditionally, bay leaf has been used to treat pain, injuries, and sickness. It has also been used in cooking. The younger leaves are generally omitted from cooking because they leave behind an unpleasant menthol taste. The species of bay leaf that grows in the Virgin Islands is not to be confused with conventional bay leaf—or Bay Laurel—which is grown in the Mediterranean.
Growing up, my dad used to toss a handful of bay leaves into boiling water, let it cool down, and then pour the warm water over our heads, leaving us smelling fresh and clean. The use of bay leaf in hygiene has been going on for quite some time. In the olden days, sailors who had been out at sea for weeks on end would rub themselves with the leaves to cover up their funk. Later on, bay leaf was distilled in rum and mixed with other spices. This blend of spices is what we now know as bay rum, which was a staple in Virgin Islands after shave products and cologne. Due to the high demand, bay leaf became one of St. John’s most vital exports. Our bay leaf was heralded as the best in the world. Since then, we have moved away from bay leaf exportation, but you can still find the St. Johns Bay Rum factory up and running in Havensight, St. Thomas.